Monday, 10 October 2022 | 7°C Dublin
Premium subscribers enjoy unlimited access to all articles. But there's more: discover your full benefits now.
O ur wine writer shares her pick of the offers at Dunnes and O’Briens, with bottles to drink now and one to put away for Christmas
Our wine expert's affordable picks from the Dunnes Stores and O'Briens wine sales
Domaine du Bois Noel Savigny-Lès-Beaune 2017
The Pale Rosé by Sacha Lichine
Bonfils l’Esparrou Vin de France
Almorquí Tinto 2021, Vinos Alicante, Spain
Almorquí Tinto 2021, Vinos Alicante, Spain
Last week, I suggested a couple of blow-the-budget treats of bottle-fermented bubbles, alongside some more affordably priced alternatives, including a highlight from Dunnes Stores’ current French wine sale. That sale continues until October 10, but O’Briens Wines’ annual September wine sale ends tomorrow, so today’s column highlights some bargains from both.
I was impressed by a pair of newcomers to the O’Briens stable, the smartly packaged Almorquí Tinto (red) and Blanco (white), which offer good value even at their regular price of €13.95, but are a steal at their current €9.95. Both are from Bodega Pinoso in Alicante in south-eastern Spain, a 90-year-old cooperative of some 150 winegrowers. This forward-thinking co-op have evolved to adapt a modern approach, including engaging the winemaking expertise of consultant oenologist Jean Natolí, who has steered them to promote biodiversity and work organically in the vineyards with a focus on native grape varieties and the recovery of rare historic varieties.
Both Almorquí wines are vegan as well as organic. I feature the red today as my wine of the week, but the blanco wine is worth snapping up, too. It is based on the drought-resistant Airen grape, which generally gives a fairly neutral crisp white wine, and so is more often channelled into brandy production. Here, the addition of Sauvignon Blanc brings some fruity character: with hints of nashi pear, honeydew melon, and a touch of lemon sherbet, its bracing citrus-driven acidity would make it a nice choice for a supper of fish pie or fish and chips. Also from O’Briens today is a super value, estate-bottled Rioja Reserva made with traditional techniques at the family-run, organically farmed Bodegas Medievo in Rioja Oriental — consider buying a couple more to squirrel away for a year or two and coax out more of those earthy savoury notes.
From the Dunnes Stores French wine sale, today’s picks include an accessible introduction to orange wine, both in terms of its approachable style and price point. I’ve also included a well-priced rosé from the producer of Whispering Angel, at a fraction of the price of that cult-status rosé or its sibling wines from Château d’Esclans; and a treat of a Burgundy from one of the last cooler vintages that the region has seen. Also worth checking out (especially if you would like to bag a bargain now for festivities later in the year) are the warm and earthy Domaine La Bressande Mercurey 2018 (€24.80 from €31); the rich and spicy Clos du Roi from Château Gigognan in Châteauneuf-du-Pape (€24 from €30) and the expressive and well-balanced Château Bechereau Pomerol 2018 (€20.80 from €26).
Almorquí Tinto 2021, Vinos Alicante, Spain, 14pc, €9.95 (from €13.95 until September 25) A great value and versatile red for under €10, featuring a well-balanced blend of juicy Garnacha Tintorera with inky Monastrell and fruity Merlot, with dark and broody fruit aromas of cherry and iron, bramble fruits, and sweet cinnamon spice, leading to a plush mouthfeel with ripe tannins and soft, dark fruits and some sweet concentration on the finish. A great autumn choice for everyday drinking, either without food or to pair with ragu-based pastas or similarly hearty flavours. O’Briens Wine; obrienswine.ie
Bonfils l’Esparrou Vin de France
Bonfils l’Esparrou Vin de France, France, 13.5pc, €10.80 (from €13.50 until October 10) If you’re curious to try an orange wine, this medium-bodied Vermentino-Viognier blend with a touch of floral Muscat is a pretty place to start. Think toasted apricot, dried orange peel and jasmine leading to a dry, saline, and zesty finish with some subtle tannic grip. Pair with salty cheese or shellfish. Dunnes Stores; dunnesstoresgrocery.com
Domaine du Bois Noel Savigny-Lès-Beaune 2017
Get the best home, property and gardening stories straight to your inbox every Saturday
Enter email address This field is required Sign Up
Domaine du Bois Noel Savigny-Lès-Beaune 2017, Burgundy, France, 13.5pc, €28 (from €35 until October 10) From Premier Cru Les Jarrons sites in a cool year, this is an elegant expression of Burgundy Pinot Noir, with poached cherry and plum aromas and hints of strawberry and basil bringing lift to its taut and lean structure, finishing with a bite of minerality and cherry stones. Dunnes Stores; dunnesstoresgrocery.com
Acuro Rioja Reserva 2017, Spain, 13.5pc, €13.95 (from €20.95 until September 25) Already showing developed notes of balsamic, black olive, toasted brazil nuts and warm leather alongside its strawberry preserve and black fruit aromas, with soft tannins fleshing out a velvety mouthfeel, and notes of prunes, sandalwood and balsamic strawberry on the finish. Pair with roast meats. O’Briens Wine; obrienswine.ie
The Pale Rosé by Sacha Lichine
The Pale Rosé by Sacha Lichine, Vin du Pays de Var, France, 12.5pc, €12.80 (from €16 until October 10) You may not have heard of Sacha Lichine, but you’ll have heard of his Whispering Angel. This is simpler stuff, a charming Grenache-Cinsault-Syrah blend that is dry and delicate with cool strawberry character and crisp citrus notes. Dunnes Stores; dunnesstoresgrocery.com
A Mediahuis Website © Independent.ie